We need to finalize the design on our exposed concrete floors.  The design we need to establish (decide on) includes the following elements:

1. The color, if any, of the concrete;
2. How that color is set in the concrete (stain or integral);
3. The finishing of the concrete (grind into the aggregate or just into the ‘cream’);
4. The sealant (if any); and
5. The level of polishing.

Reviewing Alternatives

Bryan spoke with Bill Clyne, who explained the differences in the various alternatives facing us, including the maintenance and other issues.  Bill recommended that we visit Safeway’s new ‘The Market‘ store in downtown San Jose.  The floor in this store is stained, sealed and polished, and has received accolades from many people.

Bryan visited the store and was fortunate to meet with Safeway’s product manager for the The Market line.  Safeway has two The Market stores, with the first store opened in southern California (Long Beach) and the second store in San Jose.

The stained and polished concrete looked great in the store.  it was a warm ’earth tone’ and not a cold gray concrete.  Jo-Anne wants our floor to have a warm earth tone and not gray concrete.

(Bryan received permission to take photos of the stained and polished concrete floor in The Market.)

Stained and polished concrete floor with saw cuts to control cracking.

Grace integral color chart against the stained and polished concrete.

Floor area with a deeper grind, exposing the aggregate.

Section of signs identifying the 'green' features of The Market.

With the rebar in place, the forms are being set in the locations where the concrete will be at 3 inches and where it will be at 5.25 inches.

Bill Brown visits our job site to review progress and discuss the findings relating to finishing the concrete.

Uponor 5/8 PEX on an uncoiling spool, ready for installation by Matt Jung (88HVAC) on the weekend.

After checking the perimeter forms, Bill Brown’s team started laying out the reinforcing steel (rebar) over the hollow core concrete panels on our ground floor. There will be at least three inches of concrete covering all of the hollow core concrete panels.

Lots of Steel

In the living areas, we are using #3 rebar, 18 inches on center, each way.  Interpreting this, the rebar is 3/8 of an inch in diameter and it is put down in a grid, with each ‘square’ 18 inches by 18 inches.  The garage will have #3 rebar, set 12 inches on center each way.

Also, we are pouring concrete to two levels on our ground floor.  Where there is hardwood flooring, we are pouring 3 inches of concrete over the hollow core concrete panels.  Where there is exposed concrete, we are pouring 5.25 inches of concrete. 

Where there is exposed concrete, we will have the PEX tubing for our radiant heating set on top of the rebar.  We will have to ensure the PEX is fastened securely to the rebar so it doesn’t float up in the concrete where it could be damaged by the 1/2 inch deep saw cuts in the concrete that are designed to control the cracking that will occur in the concrete.

Starting to tie the rebar together.

The rebar is set at 18 inches on center, each way. The intersections are tied together with wire to hold the rebar in place until the concrete is poured and cured.

Setting forms by the Bridge Hall at the front of the house.

Forms in place at the front of the living room. This edge, with the concrete and steel I-beam, will be seen by everyone when they enter the house.

Rebar in place at the front of the house (but not in the garage).

Jorge recording hours at the end of the day.

It is good to see the rebar mat in place as we want to complete pouring concrete before Thanksgiving.